nooks and crannies that make up the eating and drinking areas of this popular pub. The décor was as buzzy as the ambiance: rustic wooden floors and furniture contrasted with an eclectic selection of pictures and mirrors, and intriguing wallpaper; our own cosy 'nook' had an unusual wallpaper that hinted at William Morris underwater.

The menu was another interesting mix, with a couple of typical bar snacks (chips with aioli or a bowl of chilli), and a varied and extensive selection of starters, mains and puddings. Hungry, we eschewed the pigeon breast with pearl barley and plums, and the grilled halloumi with artichokes, olives, sun blush tomato and pine nuts, in favour of smoked trout with a cucumber salad and salmon caviar, and the whitebait with cayenne mayo. The smoked trout was delicately presented and had a light flavour. The portion of whitebait was ample, the cayenne mayo an enlivening contrast to the slightly over-cooked fish.

A thunderstorm was giving a dramatic performance outside and we shared a very acceptable bottle of Merlot as we watched rain-soaked figures seek refuge in the pub, shaking off the rain together with the stresses and strains of the day as they stepped through the front doors. The dozen main courses again had enough variety to make choosing a pleasure. We avoided the traditional (beer-battered fish and chips and sirloin steak with chips) and tried the confit duck leg with fennel gratin and blackberry jus, and the only vegetarian option, a risotto with Trompette mushroom, spring onion and poached egg. The duck was tender and fell off the bone, but could have benefited from a richer sauce. Green vegetables added to the culinary confusion: was this truly French or was it opting for a Peking style? The risotto was a satisfactory but unexciting option: the poached egg was not strongly in evidence.

Although the place was busy the staff were never flustered and the various courses were served without undue haste or wait.

'Is it always this full?' We asked our waitress.

'On Fridays and Saturdays,' she told us. 'But at other times it is more family orientated, especially at Sunday lunchtimes. And as we are so near the Backs and Madaglene Bridge, we get a lot of visitors.'

Yes, 'visitors' would certainly enjoy the blend of an old-fashioned pub with a modern twist and a thoughtful menu, while 'locals' would appreciate it as place to relax and enjoy catching up with friends. The Punter's mixed clientele and aspirations are reflected in a menu offering main courses which are much better than 'pub grub' at a price to match.

Time for pudding, and the Punter offered one with possibly the longest name of any pudding we have ever come across - orange, ricotta and almond crepe with fig, honey and blood orange sauce. It certainly caught our attention. In the end, though, we decided it had too many words so settled for a shorter lemon posset with shortbread biscuits. Posset is a very old English dish, possibly once a hot medieval drink of spiced milk lightly curdled by adding wine or ale or lemon juice. With time it has become more like a syllabub, containing cream and/or eggs. Lady Macbeth used drugged possets to knock out the guards before inciting her husband to wicked deeds.

Whatever.

This posset was fresh and tangy and absolutely excellent, and afterwards we were too relaxed and comfortably replete to contemplate any form of wickedness. Contemplating leaving the warmth and bustle of the pub and heading out into the stormy night was challenge enough. So we ordered another drink and let our weekend begin a day early.