Review

Looming above a leather couch at The Waterman hangs a giant picture of a canal in Amsterdam. At first it seems a little odd until you remember that this north Cambridge pub is seconds away from the River Cam. Charmingly, the couple who own the pub admit that the photograph was the one piece of new decoration which they both agreed on.

Since re-opening in the spring of 2009, this pub on Mitcham's Corner has literally bloomed. Window pots and hanging baskets have sprouted flowers, brightening up the red brick building on the corner of Victoria Avenue and Chesterton Road.

Since re-opening in the spring of 2009, this pub on Mitcham's Corner has literally bloomed. Window pots and hanging baskets have sprouted flowers, brightening up the red brick building on the corner of Victoria Avenue and Chesterton Road. A few picnic tables now line the pavement and a large sign promising 'gateaux of the day' tempts passers-by. Out the back the floral theme continues with decking, parasols and lots more plant pots. Once inside the basic layout of this two-room city boozer remains the same but with a richer feel from brown couches, dark red printed wallpaper and yet more flowers. Hair fever sufferers beware!

Despite the improved décor the menu remains one of deep-fried pub staples such as breaded fish, lasagne and the inevitable roast on a Sunday. It's priced as you would expect with extra value offered for weekday diners. A little variation enters the fray with the presence of a stir fry on the specials board and a weekly Chinese food night on a Tuesday.

We order a couple of pints of London Pride from the friendly Australian barmaid and then seclude ourselves in the sunny back yard. Punctuating the pastoral calm of the terrace garden the staff dash out at intervals to retrieve provisions from an out building. Potato wedges and nachos may not be ambitious starters but the wedges are fluffy just the way we like them. Beef stir fry and scampi follow on fancy square plates. Both are well executed with ample portions. The stir fry tickles the tongue with its fresh taste and then supplies plenty of crunch from some fresh vegetables. We finish with treacle sponge and bread and butter pudding. These are likely bought in and taste as such - good solid sugary stodge.

Previously the owners managed The Bridge in Clayhithe so they have some experience with pub grub which is apparent from our trip. The big surprise with The Waterman though is how some flowers and hard graft have made it stand out. As we leave on a Friday summer's evening the atmosphere buzzes at this pleasant city watering hole.