Review

On a cloudless summer's day, it's hard to picture a more idyllic location than that enjoyed by the Plough at Fen Ditton: imagine a fertile meadow of grass sprinkled with traditional wooden picnic tables that extend to the verge of the river Cam - the twitter of birds interrupted only by the rhythmic 'splash' of rowers' oars - and you'll get somewhere close. It's a location that works wonders in terms of drawing in the customers to enjoy the sheltered serenity of the view, but on a cold winter's night, when both the Cam and enviable outdoor dining area are just shadows through the window, is it still worth venturing out of the City Centre.

You can't say enough about the exterior of The Plough - it's unique to the area - but inside too, a huge effort has been put into maintaining the laid back

The menu is both modern and admirably simple, and reflects the expectations created by the fashionably rustic décor

atmosphere, with a thoughtful mix of formal dining tables, comfortable seating, and bar stools creating different areas within the restaurant. It's effortlessly modern and chic - each table has its own spot light, fading out the other diners and putting your table centre stage - but maintains a relaxed ambience, with rural farmhouse furniture set against boldly painted walls highlighted with modern prints and broken by large windows which, in daylight, enjoy that fantastic view. The venue is both large and open, but the focused lighting and different levels help to create secluded areas and maintain privacy.

The menu is both modern and admirably simple, and reflects the expectations created by the fashionably rustic décor. Contemporary favourites such as mussels, monkfish, and classic burgers are complemented by more exclusive, and expensive, pan fried scallops served on a bed of spaghetti with chilli, ginger and coriander; an exciting (and un-heard of) fish of the day; and a Mediterranean inspired 'share-plate' comprising home made hummus, goats cheese, marinated olives, warm ciabatta and fresh dipping oils and vinegars - the latter is a great introduction to the evening if you're hungry, and happy to get your fingers messy. The specials are presented to you at the table, on a quaint chalk board, by staff who are impeccably informed, sociable and attentive.

On our visit, it was hard to fault the food - it was fresh, simple, beautifully presented and undoubtedly healthy - at least until the desserts. Each dish was served with an accompaniment that complemented its flavours, and the service was unhurried. Given the ingredients and care with which the dishes were put together, the restaurant also offers excellent value for money.

The Plough could easily rely on its location alone to draw in its clientele, but without the backing of excellent food, atmosphere and service, customers may not return. The perfected menu, relaxed ambience and amiable service available inside the restaurant, however, ensure that next time you visit, it won't be just for a pint by the river.