unobtrusive, if not a bit robotic. The French-style bistro adjoins the 41-room hotel in an ancient building and the various menus pick and choose from European cuisines. The aromas of the open kitchen greeted our entry as we were ushered to a candlelit table in a secluded corner. The sommelier brought us a carafe of pleasant Italian merlot.

As befits the image Hotel du Vin prides itself on locally sourced food. The smoked meat and fish come from Bottisham, the wheat and flour used is still ground by windmills at Kings Ripton and the pork used squeak from somewhere from Market Deeping. Channelling all these good intentions the menu, inspired by Head Chef Jonathan Dean, changes daily to reflect the seasons which the chef and sommelier's choices do also. The evening menus feature simple classics as well as premium-priced fine dining, with quick snacks, salads and grills available at lunch, afternoon tea featuring baked-to-order scones and even breakfast if there is space.

Our creamy watercress soup was simple but tasty, although the basket of bread we had as an accompaniment was both disappointing and expensive. The black pudding salad consisted of big leaves of spinach, rocket, crispy bacon and equally crunchy croutons and the taste definitely matched the artistic presentation.

Mains were supreme in their presentation and taste. The steak hache may have only been a posh beef burger, egg and fries, but the beef was tender to point it just melted in the mouth. It came with delicious hand-cut chips and a hen's egg fried to perfection. Grilled hake came in a soft herb crust and nutty romesco sauce. Originating in Catalonia the tomato-based sauce included both almonds and hazelnuts and proved a neat contrast to the fish. For a small supplement we also enjoyed a delightful dessert vanilla panacotta with berry compote and Colson Bassett Stilton and biscuits.

Retiring to the oak-panelled library for coffees and liquors we mused upon our experience only to be distracted by the choice of over 200 whiskeys and brandies. This is the kind of place that even has a heated-stogie shack in the tiny courtyard! Hotel du Vin's excellent bistro definitely took the cigar for the wonderful evening we enjoyed but the prices reflected this.