What we thought

From the moment you enter the Square and Compasses in Great Shelford you get the warmth and welcome feel of the trusty traditional village pub. Low beamed ceilings, exposed brickwork, solid dark wooden furniture and red swirly carpet. You know at once that this is a down-to-earth, no-frills sort of place. What you see is what you get.

There are no little vases of dried flowers on the tables, just pots

You know at once that this is a down-to-earth, no-frills sort of place. What you see is what you get.

of mustard and ketchup and no fancy artwork on the walls, just the brass square and compasses on the mantelpiece. Plenty of locals are clustered round the gleaming wood-panelled bar with its pumps and bottles winking in the light.

We are glad we made a reservation as all the tables are full. The clientele varies between the extremely convivial bunch of regulars at the bar, the usual parties of silver surfers, several walkers who may have lost their way and the 'ladies who lunch' from Shelford, some with V-necked pastel husbands in tow. There is a fruit machine on one side of the bright two-roomed bar but no-one is using it. The drinkers are all intent on their pints of IPA, Old Tripe and Rocking Rudolph and quite rightly so. The menu is comfortingly familiar and reassuringly short and assured.

Forget your high-priced sea bass or lamb shank gastro-dishes. The food here is hearty and satisfying. Sandwiches are no-nonsense cheddar, tuna, prawn, sausage or ham and come with chips on the side: likewise the cheese or mushroom omelette. Main courses are nostalgic rather than innovative: bangers and mash, steak pie, lasagne, chilli con carne and a couple of specials on the blackboard described simply as stuffed peppers and fish pie.

The peppers are delivered to the table next to us. The portion is almost overly generous and looks and smells scrumptious. The evening menu offers Barnsley chops, rump steak and cajun chicken but don't come here if you are worried about your cholesterol. Starters are deep-fried prawns, deep-fried camembert and grilled goats' cheese! Our tomato and mozzarella salad is a masterpiece, large juicy slices of deep red tomato and thick wedges of cheese drizzled with a delicious balsamic reduction. The rump steak burger is lean and juicy and the chips are homemade. We share a Bailey's cheesecake (divine, but it's a pity they had to include the statutory blob of squirty cream) followed by excellent coffee.

Thursday nights are steak nights - rump, gammon or salmon and a board outside announces 'Thank Cod it's Friday' - enough said. The pub is the unofficial home of the Shelford Cricket Club and in the summer the attractive decked patio is put to good use. We are told that the landlord wins prizes for his floral displays. Unfortunately, on a wet and miserable December day this is hard to imagine but this will be an excuse to return in June to check it out.

The Square and Compasses doesn't pretend to be anything but a firmly established and popular village pub offering great beers and good solid tucker at sensible prices and these days it can be hard to find places like this. Long may it continue.

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