Little flourishes in style and presentation elevate the service above the impersonal gastro-pub experience. The menu draws on a variety of cuisines known for their deceptive simplicity. A Catalan, Italian or Thai dish may comprise only a few ingredients, but it takes a skilled chef such as Heather to bring both authenticity and originality to the table.

A starter of scallops and risotto set the tone. The shellfish are mounted on dollops of creamy risotto, fragrant with herbs and spices; the unassuming sweetness of the dish brought to life with twists of lemon. My companion's deer liver terrine is coarse, rich and velvety; and strips of pickled beetroot, along with a spicy, fruity home-made chutney bring British farmhouse nostalgia to what is otherwise a fine demonstration of French technique. The seafood en papillote is a particularly popular dish. A parchment parcel yields a steamy treasure trove of flaky fish and tender baby vegetables, pretty as a picture and cooked to perfection. A bowl of basmati rice is provided to soak up the wonderful white wine sauce. Across the room, a daring diner is tucking into the fillet steak in spiced cocoa sauce - a generous portion of meat in a glossy coating, served with vanilla scented beans and a stack of chips. This is surely two courses in one!

My roast duck is spiced predominantly with cinnamon and accompanied by three sausages, in a salty flageolet bean and pork cassoulet. It's a rustic, unpretentious dish with real French character. The cassoulet owes its smooth, fresh texture to a thickening by reduction, rather than added flour.

The pièce de résistance is certainly Heather's take on the classic Sablè Breton. Rather than layered biscuits, the shortcake is baked into a cup casing, and filled with vanilla cream and raspberries. It's crumbly on the outside, but inside it melds beautifully with the filling. This attractive construction rests on a flourish of orange sauce, alongside a scoop of glace vanille. My companion ranked this among the best desserts he had ever tasted, and quickly devoured it despite his earlier protestations that the seafood had filled him to the brim.

The cheeseboard is populated by suppliers from Norfolk and Suffolk. Keen to avoid anything goaty, I sought Rick's advice and chose three cow's milk cheeses from 'Mrs Temple's Cheese' in Norfolk: Copy's Cloud, a delicate and gooey brie-style wedge; the firm, nutty Norfolk Alpine, which has a golden colour and dappled rind; and finally the soft veined Binham Blue. These were served with fruit, crackers and a portion of the homemade chutney.

Although news of the improved Carpenters may not yet have spread as far as it surely will, advance reservations are advisable - and give the Hurleys a chance to cater for special dietary requirements if necessary. The view through the windows from outside is bound to draw spontaneous visitors, who are invited to relax in the friendly waiting area by the dining tables on especially busy nights. Whether you're hoping to impress a first date, or treat the family to the very reasonable prix fixe option, the Carpenters is a delightful place to be and a credit to the hospitable, hardworking Hurleys.