Review

As part of an already winning formula, and with an enviable location at the head of King's Parade, there is a certain expectation when you visit the Cambridge Chop House. It is a tried and tested formula: the owners already have a desirable CV, having rejuvenated Ely's reputable Boathouse Restaurant, as well as The Cock Pub and Restaurant in Hemingford Grey, both of which are regulars in the Good Food Guide, and offer ultra-chic styling and professional service.

On first appearances, The Chop House follows suit. It is

As part of an already winning formula, and with an enviable location at the head of King's Parade, there is a certain expectation when you visit the Cambridge Chop House.

home to a quiet, modern bar upstairs, which at ground level overlooks Cambridge's exquisite King's College, and which hides the unexpected size of the main restaurant one level below. Here, low, arching ceilings and thick, whitewashed walls create a series of quiet, modestly decorated eating areas and help construct a contemporary but inviting atmosphere. Colour and familiarity are injected with large artistic prints on the walls, which depict everyday scenes from around the city, and elegant oil-burning candles add to the ambience.

The restaurant promises classic British food, and prides itself on sourcing seasonal ingredients from local producers. The pick-and-mix style sausage, mash and gravy are all made on-site, and the menu is complemented by great British beer and an equally seasonal wine list. It's a great marketing strategy, and one that draws you in with high expectations.

Indeed, the menu is characteristically English and undoubtedly well put together, with home-cooking classics such as lemon posset, fruit crumble, suet pudding and potted shrimp - even the after dinner cheese selection offers up examples of English heritage, with Somerset Brie and Devonshire Beenleigh Blue sitting amongst the better known mature cheddar. Seasonal, steamed greens accompany most of the main dishes on what was, when we visited, a winter menu, which has the potential to change up to three times per year to accommodate new ingredients and dishes. Beware those dishes that do not come with accompaniments though: if you miss the sides at the end of the menu you may just end up with less than you thought!

The staff are attentively quick to introduce you to the restaurant's concept, where you can choose from a variety of flavoured potato mash and tempting sauces to complement your main course, and they are well versed on each of the dishes. Indeed, the service cannot be faulted.

Although unquestionably both English and seasonal, the menu is also somewhat restricted, with a limited selection that shows little adventure with what are truly excellent ingredients. The price is also indicative of an exceptional quality, which sadly isn't always supported by the food that arrives - the inconspicuous décor, although fashionably stylish, can also leave you a little cold. Whereas its regional and more mature counterparts have got it right, the Cambridge Chop House seems to be, as yet, finding its feet.