showcases regional produce - everything he stands for, in fact.

The restaurant is part of the Grand Arcade development, and its bright, modern looks certainly chime with the new shopping centre. The large airy room is simply yet stylishly decorated - think city chic rather than village trattoria - and tables are positioned for noisy conviviality rather than quiet intimacy. We perused the menu over a bread tin served with deliciously green Tuscan olive oil, and a mixed plate of antipasti. We particularly liked the punchy caponata and green beans with mint. The wine list offers few surprises, but everything is available by the glass, and it certainly covers the most obvious Italian bases. A Nero d'Avola was particularly pleasant: ripe and soft, yet not so juicy as to become cola-like.

Pasta dishes here are main course sized rather than the traditional Italian 'before meat or fish' course, but the homemade pasta and carefully-judged sauces are miles from most so-called Italian restaurants in the UK. Other options include a range of salads and several meal and fish dishes, though here we were a little disappointed. Grilled vegetables dressed in balsamic vinegar and olive oil would have benefited from being served warm rather than fridge-cold, and a steak ordered blue was also too chilled when shown the pan.

With the restaurant still buzzing well after 10pm, we needed little encouragement to sample the dessert menu. A panna cotta had just the right wobble, and was well-flavoured with vanilla. A lemon tart was generous, dense and filled with a rich, curdy mixture - definitely one to share - and complemented by an espresso.

Carluccio's is an excellent venue for a quick bite or a more relaxed meal, for a lunchtime sandwich or a three-course dinner with a bottle of their excellent chianti. With a pleasant outdoor terrace, it brings a welcome breath of European café culture to Cambridge.