What we thought

The Black Bull at Balsham is a truly traditional English pub. Enter through the low doorway and at once you find yourself in a cosy and comfortable bar with a large brick inglenook fireplace on one wall with pub games, skittles and magazines in the corner. Divided into two, there is seating to suit all tastes from high stools at the bar, tub shaped armchairs and two squashy chocolate leather

We leave feeling as rosy and syrupy as the closing scenes of Heartbeat - a bold claim but a true one

sofas. Charmingly and unaffectedly rural the warm atmosphere promises an inviting and memorable dining experience.

After we spend half an hour agonising over what to have we suddenly realise that around the corner is a specials blackboard and we have to start all over again! Serving a mixture of traditional British with a few continental flourishes there's something here for most palates. Pie and mash is prominent coming in chicken, venison or mushroom varieties with a choice of four different kinds of pastry and even four different kinds of mash. Decisions, decisions...

However, once installed at a round pine table in the spacious barn dining room with a glass of wine we make our decision. Had we wished to be more private there is a delightful small dining room with only four tables, all set with sparkling glass, white napkins and vases of fresh flowers. Another, larger dining room overlooks the pretty garden to the rear.

A basket of rustic bread arrives with virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dipping and then comes the serious business of getting stuck into the real food. A spinach and goats' cheese tart floats as light as a feather with crisp and brown pastry while the fish cakes come creamy and moist (how seldom do restaurants achieve this) with a generous dollop of aioli. Satisfyingly thick the venison steak exudes an air of mystery with its dark mushroom sauce. Finally, cod and chips arrive in an ample portion with beautifully crispy batter and a large wedge of lemon.

Fellow diners are a mix of families (one group have cycled here with three little ones), seniors and youngsters. Two anxious looking middle-aged couples are chewing over the worrying news about house prices in Haverhill. Four wrinkly rockers are discussing old bangers and a badly behaved Riley Sprite classic car that backfires.

A little rest and another bottle of Gavi and then on to the puddings. These offer enticing options for any palate but the chocolate tart and the hot sticky toffee pudding go down well with their creamy toppings of vanilla ice cream. The rhubarb and apple crumble provides comfort food par excellence.

Service is attentive - the owner himself helps to serve us and the meal is nicely paced. It is also a pub for serious drinkers serving IPA, Buntingford Ale and Atom Splitter as well as an impressive and affordable array of wines from around the world. We leave feeling as rosy and syrupy as the closing scenes of Heartbeat - a bold claim but a true one - and vow to return sooner rather than later to enjoy the offerings of this worthwhile local pub.

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