The word 'grand' doesn't really do justice to what was the East Wing of Ickworth House and now the Ickworth Hotel, a luxury family hotel set in 1,800 acres of National Trust parkland.
Much restoration had to be undertaken before the hotel first opened its doors in 2002 as the house had been somewhat neglected by its previous occupier the notorious 7th Marquess of Bristol, who was known mainly for
The chef clearly likes to add other touches to the dishes - the tiny cubes of jelly with the sea bass were unusual and thoughtfully crafted
his colourful but unhappy life and years of drug addiction on which he had spent many millions of his inherited fortune.
Now the hotel's rooms echo with the sound of happy children, except in its Fine Dining area, Frederick's Restaurant, in the evening where it is the one part of the hotel that is strictly adults only. Indeed the contrast to the family atmosphere is such that another diner described it as 'like being in Church' and presumably they weren't talking about the family service. The hotel also serves food in The Conservatory, however, which is more family oriented, and is open 6-8.30pm daily.
In the Lounge several hotel guests were spending the evening reading or relaxing. Our drinks were served there with olives and a savoury mix as we perused the menu. Having made our choices we were then shown to our table, where our wines - glasses of Pinot Grigio and Sancerre Rose - were waiting.
An appetiser of crayfish and risotto cake approximately the size of an 'old' ten pence piece was served first - 'with the compliments of the chef.' Warmed rolls, one a tomato bread and the other flavoured with rosemary were very pleasant.
The staff, of whom there were plenty, mostly did a good job but let themselves down a couple of times when their routine was broken. Our waiter looked almost startled when we enquired about the flavour of the rolls, said he didn't know but politely offered to find out. As soon as he was out of the door we could hear him yelling the question down the corridor and another staff member arrived to tell us the answer. Another waiter who served us some mineral water unfortunately poured it into a glass containing another drink.
The meal itself was beautifully presented. The smoked wood pigeon to start didn't have as much flavour as it might have had, but its accompanying salad of beetroot, pomegranate, goats cheese and watercress made up for that as an excellent complementary mix. The risotto starter was also deemed delicious although the very wide brimmed bowl it was served in made it a little awkward to eat.
For main courses we had ordered organic salmon, which was also served with risotto. The salmon melted in the mouth and was utterly delicious. The other dish was also fish, this time a fillet of sea bass on a bed of spicy lentils and again, very tasty.
The chef clearly likes to add other touches to the dishes - the tiny cubes of jelly with the sea bass were unusual and thoughtfully crafted but perhaps did not add as much as the effort that must have gone into them would have been worth. Dishes are served with a foam here, a jus there, a vanilla-lime mash or a pea and watercress veloute - many of which are probably not found on most Bury St Edmunds menus.
The desserts of plum tarte tatin and chocolate fondant with pistachio ice-cream and praline dust were both good - with no mistaking the pistachio flavour.
It's not cheap to eat at the Ickworth but granted it is among the 'best' places in the area. On the whole, for an upmarket experience in a venue that is certainly like no other locally it is worth finding the money for a special occasion meal here.
