After a period under scaffolding last year, the pub formerly known as The Globe on Hill's Road re-opened with a new name and new paint job as The Emperor. The pub has been made over by the team behind The Empress just off Mill Road and seeks to offer a similar formula of good beer and games.
About ten minutes walk from the centre of Cambridge, the Emperor stands out with
On entering at a mid-week lunchtime, we were greeted by a blast of 80s indie music
its white and green painted exterior. On entering at a mid-week lunchtime, we were greeted by a blast of 80s indie music. The room makes an L-shape around the bar, with wooden tables and chairs and some shabby looking red leather couches along the walls.
It is a well equipped pub, with a big stack of board games sitting in one corner and a space set aside for a darts board. An unusual hexagonal shaped pool table dominates the space on one side of the room and stole the attention of the younger members of our party.The menu includes common pub dishes such as fish and chips, pies, burgers, sandwiches and pizzas. It's largely food suited to eating with beer, and because of this we chose to forgo the lagers on offer and the quite wide selection of wines to try some of the real ales, of which they usually have four on tap.
We start with a beer from JHB in Oakham. A light pale, summery brew, it slipped down easily in the unseasonably warm Easter weather. After this we also enjoyed a dark but citrussy and refreshing Cornish ale called Doom Bar. If beer is your thing, then there's certainly much to satisfy here.
But how about the food? Our cheese burger was well-made, tasty and well-cooked. It came served on a layer of grated cheddar, which struck us as perhaps a little eccentric. It also lacked any ketchup or gherkins, so we added a splodge of the first ourselves.
While the accompanying chips were not hand-cut, they tasted freshly made and well-cooked so that they had a light fluffiness about them and did not feel greasy. A side salad had fresh enough lettuce, cherry tomatoes and cucumber but these came ungarnished and it felt a bit like an afterthought.
There was no children's menu available, but the barman agreed to have an adult portion of fish and chips divided in two for our younger diners. Although unimpressed by the amount of bones in the fish, they both seemed to enjoy these meals and tucked in quickly. The fish had flaky white meat that tasted fresh and full of flavour. It came in a shell of heavy batter that was dark yellow and pleasantly eggy. The tartar sauce, however, felt overly salty and uninspiring.
There is no dessert menu but we are all reasonable full and the barman gives us a bowl of chocolate eggs (it is Easter) to finish our meal. After eating, we finished off our game of rotating pool, then got another round of drinks in while enjoying some of the board games. A snooker match was showing on the big screen TV and Oasis played from the jukebox.