Black Horse but has now taken on a new cloak along with its new name. The new look also offers a fresh, bright and stylish interior with contemporary, relaxing décor.

The welcome was warm and unhurried as we were shown to the table, where modern high-backed chairs offered comfortably-upholstered seating. We were promptly offered an inviting choice of warm, freshly-baked bread rolls by the amiable young waiter.

There's an interesting weekday a la carte menu, and also a bar menu with the usual burger and lasagna options. We came on a Sunday, however, when the main fixture of is the carvery.

The enticing smell of roasts wafted across as we headed to the adjacent Yacht Club bar. Here perfectly-cooked joints of meat sizzled gently under heat lamps. There was lamb with rosemary, nicely-pink beef, and pork with crispy crackling. The suggestion that we try some of each was impossible to refuse. We selected from a range of vegetables and returned to our table, the plates following us in the careful hands of staff.

While many pubs and restaurants offer a Sunday carvery, few are as faultless as that at The Swan. The meat was perfection, nice succulent and full flavoured slices free from that dryness that sometimes affects roasts. The vegetables were equally well done too, tasting fresh and slightly crisp as they should. We left not a morsel and our poor dogs did not get a goody-bag treat this time.

We were delighted to find that the puddings were all made on the premises. The fig ice cream was unfortunately off the menu for the day, but that turned out to be a blessing in disguise because it meant we got to eat the heavenly cookies and cream. The small, rich fudge pieces set in a sensuously soft vanilla surround. The creamy bread and butter pudding was also very good, and sat in a pond of real vanilla custard.

The restaurant's wines were realistically-priced but if real ale is your preference, be sure to say so as we were offered lager beers in the restaurant and only noticed the pumps for proper beer as we waited at the carvery.

As clouds gathered on the horizon, we left The Swan that afternoon agreeing that this restaurant could add to the growing reputation for good food in this part of the County. It should certainly go onto everyone's list of better places to eat in the greater-Ely area, and offers a very attractive option for business lunches.

An easy 10 minutes or so drive from Ely, and even accessible by rail, it was well worth the journey for us, and it won" be long before we return to feast our eyes on their very promising à la carte menu.