a coffee shop once, and a much-loved juice bar before that. A real estate agent might describe it as cosy, or bijoux. To say the décor is minimalist would be to over-state the case. Downright Spartan is more like it, with its duckling-yellow walls and no decoration save for the place's food hygiene award (four stars).

We looked around and noticed that many of the customers were enjoying the same dish: fried mince pork in yellow bean sauce, highly recommended by the owner. Among the younger diners (the restaurant caters to the growing number of Chinese students in Cambridge) rice porridge is a popular and economic choice.

Spare rib soup is one of the specialities, but we were really after the dumplings. Both the dough and the various fillings are hand-made on site. So too are the steamed buns, including variations such as a layered steamed bread with Chinese sausage.

The owners have set out to recreate the experience of authentic Chinese street food: dumplings, soups and steamed breads eaten on the hoof, and often standing up. Diners can thankfully sit down here, though other services are lacking (the nearest toilet is in the fried chicken emporium on the other side of East Road).

A warming soup with pork filled wun tuns seemed like a good choice (other options for the filling included beef, chicken and chives, fresh prawns and vegetables). It was served in a vast bowl, and with a generous portion of a dozen meaty wun tuns, trailing their doughy veils like jelly-fish. Strips of seaweed gave the broth a salty tang, while chopped coriander added freshness to the flavoursome dish.

So proud was the owner of his soup that he told me I needn't add any extra condiments such as chilli oil or soy sauce. He was right. Having dispatched the twelve wun tuns, I couldn't bear leaving any of the tasty broth behind, and I inelegantly raised the bowl's rim to my mouth.

The soup had already raised my temperature, but it would soon go higher. To finish my meal I asked for a bowl of glutinous dumplings with peanut filling. They swam in a piping hot molassy broth. The combination of squidgy rice dough and the crunchy, nutty content was thrilling. Enough to leave me scalded, but immensely happy.