What we thought

On arrival at The Star, Lidgate, our first impression was the quaintness of its setting. The Sixteenth-Century pub is in a small village, with what must, in fairer weather, be a charming garden. The interior of the pub is traditional; low ceilings and oak beams indicate the age of the pub. The atmosphere was quietly welcoming, as was the fire ablaze in the hearth. Alongside a satisfactory range of ales and

An appealing chunk of grilled and spiced wild boar, served with sweet potatoes and tomato jam, was divine.

wines, The Star serves an extensive menu of Catalan cuisine. A range of tapas is available to those too indecisive to select a choice from the main menu, as well as a somewhat less spectacular lunch-time menu.

We made our selections, and picked at some green olives as we waited for our appetisers. We were very soon served our first course, and considering the price, the portions were generous.

The mussels marinera proved to be a good choice. Cooked in a traditional Catalan stock, with garlic, onion, white wine and tomato, they were a delicate combination of flavours. It made for an interesting change from the often-served similar French dish.

Our other appetiser was also a delight. A variety of peppers and vegetables, fried with baby squid and drizzled with their ink, was also full of flavour. It was good to see squid, usually unceremoniously battered, achieve its full potential in a dish.

Our appetites were now sharpened, and our main courses arrived shortly after. An appealing chunk of grilled and spiced wild boar, served with sweet potatoes and tomato jam, was divine. The meat retained the tiniest hint of pink at its centre, and was moist and tender. The flavour was similar to pork, but slightly gamier and richer. The tomato jam complemented the meat well, and the side dishes of sautéed potatoes and vegetables made for a hearty dish.

The boneless ox cheeks, cooked for six hours in a red wine spice reduction, were equally pleasing. The generous serving of meat was incredibly tender, and infused with the flavour of the wine.

We were too well fed to consider the choices on the dessert menu. We were satisfied to order coffee, and not surprised to find it was good quality, and strong. It had been a meal to remember.

Apart from the serving of Catalan cuisine, The Star is the archetypal traditional English country pub. They use local suppliers, and the food is of a very high quality, and the service is friendly. For two people to dine from such an interesting, unique menu, fifty pounds felt like good value for money.

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