unrelenting rain, the small bar area was full with diners huddled cosily around pine tables, enjoying informal eating and drinking. We received a warm welcome at the bar and were shown to the restaurant - slightly more formal and much more spacious - but with the same farmhouse feel and ubiquitous ancient timbering. Framed cartoon prints of jockeys were dotted on walls, a reminder of how close we were to the Newmarket horse world.

The menu offered a sensibly-modest choice but each dish sounded interesting and appealing. The creamy onion soup was deliciously flavoursome and couldn't be faulted. One of us opted for a rich vegetarian risotto which was oozing with flavours, the goats cheese coming through strongly. It was extremely filling and in retrospect might have been better preceded by a lighter starter as we definitely wanted space for pudding.

The chicken braised in an individual pie dish was succulent and tender, in a lightly-flavoured sauce and topped by a square of golden puff pastry, sprinkled with cheese. It was lacking the promised smoked bacon but who would quibble over this simple and unpretentious dish, beautifully cooked and well-complemented by leeks.

Our meal was leisurely and the evidently well-chosen young staff pleasant and efficient as we lingered to have pudding. There was very little dithering - that most perfect of puddings, a classic crème caramel won out. This dish stands well just as it is but arrived beautifully presented with a brandy sauce, orange segments, prunes, and scoop of orange sorbet. These turned out to be good accompaniments to offset the richness of a generous portion.

As we enjoyed espresso and digestif of mint tea, the rain pounded against the windows and gusts shook the trees. How protected we felt in this lovely old building with its fireplaces and welcoming atmosphere. With the combination of very good food and attractive setting, it is hardly any wonder that The Hole in the Wall has been recognised by national food guides. From our own experience that day, we would certainly endorse their praise.