framed mirrors. The décor sticks to 'old fashioned': a fireplace filled with dainty logs and pine cones, a mantelpiece clock which chimes on the hour and various knick-knacks. It might look like the sitting room of a stuffy aunt, but the quirky charm of Restaurant 22 adds to the kitchen's sharp culinary prowess.

Operating from via a wooden sideboard in the far corner by a stairs leading to the basement kitchen, the toilets and a private dining room, a supernaturally subtle waiter deferentially served our meals. He somehow squeezed between the closely placed tables, thoroughly spoiling us with his service and the French and modern dishes. Such good food made it easy to avoid the temptation to eavesdrop on conversations buzzing around us.

At Restaurant 22 each month has its own seasonally adjusted menu. So, for example, February featured rabbit and celeriac. We sampled the latter in the superb celeriac and apple soup with horseradish which burst with flavours. We also tried a goat's cheese mousse mixed dreamily with spicy pickled carrot. Our main courses of rabbit ragut and steamed coley divided opinions from superb to so-so. But we loved, apart from the frigid butter, the tangy caraway, white bloom, and malty Guinness homemade breads and also the outstanding desserts.

With a limited fixed price menu (excepting the odd supplement) diners can choose what they want with a minimum of fuss. Though slightly more expensive than the average restaurant three-course meal, the amuse-bouche, homemade breads and sorbet thrown in makes the overall price seems reasonable. The wine list - covering all the main bases with a few dessert wine plus each of the classic single malt whiskeys amongst all the main spirits and aperitifs - appealed strongly though the budget conscious should beware.

Since 1992 Restaurant 22 was owned by David Carter, who handed the establishment over to Armando Tommaso in 2007. Care was taken to preserve the traditions going back to the opening in the early 1980s. Tommaso even trained with Carter making his takeover more of a succession than a coup. Since purchasing the business after running the Three Horseshoes in Madingley, just outside Cambridge, Tommaso has retained many of the old team notably his wife and the chef Sebastian Mansfield who have both worked there for over a decade.

Describing the takover as a challenge and "damned hard work", Tommaso told us he has gradually made a few subtle changes to the wine list, for example, but on the whole continues the restaurant's legacy: "It's cosy and romantic - a true neighbourhood restaurant."