Passage, just steps away from the bustling centre, but mainly the result of a successful blend of stylish decoration, quality food and drink and friendly service.

The large size of the building (previously the old Arts Cinema) has been intelligently divided into four levels, creating individual spaces with distinct personalities that change as the day goes on. Subtle, but interesting music seemed to be frequently adjusted to a volume to suit the current clientele; we notice dance, soul and reggae tracks drifting out through the tall tables, mirrors and plants of the elegant ground floor (buzzing with life on Friday and Saturday nights) and up past the large Art Deco lampshades to the second, and cosier level. Halfway between upstairs and downstairs in ambience, as well as location, this section hosts a mixture of diners and drinkers, and is comfortably furnished with contemporary-patterned chairs and dark red panelling.

The upper sections have seen the most radical change since the bar was refurbished in December 2008, with translucent black curtains, red chairs and sparkly, crystal pendant lights creating an elegant boudoir feel that hints at the nocturnal delights of the new cocktail lounge. The sophisticated atmosphere is perfectly complemented by the weekly jazz night, held every Wednesday, with a full 5-piece band appearing once a month.

Like the bar itself, the food we order is carefully considered and attractively presented. An oven-baked Camembert makes an indulgent starter for two, presented on a rustic slate with chunks of bread for dipping and a small salad. Sweet maple syrup is an innovative partner to the salty pungent taste and oozes into the hot cheese with a scattering of pine nuts. A similarly successful blend of flavours is achieved by the lamb burger served with onion bhaji and tzatziki - an unusual mix of global tastes perhaps, but a genuine mouthful of delight. The vegetarian option we tried - a mixed vegetable tagine - was less spectacular, but equally well executed: a light, fresh mix of finely chopped Mediterranean vegetables, couscous and Moroccan spice.

Our chosen meals are good representations of the international menu. It changes every six months, but currently encompasses meze-style sharing platters, toasted quesadillas and an Asian noodle salad, in addition to a range of seafood, chargrilled meat, pasta and fine sandwiches. The wine list is similarly wide-ranging with both new and old-world wines well represented: we sampled a light and fruity Californian Viognier Chardonnay. Although wine is the star here, the range of beers is expanding with McMullen's Cask Ale and Erdinger Weissbier among the interesting options.

The whole experience feels smart, but relaxed - due in no small part to the knowledgeable and efficient staff, keen to offer recommendations. Adult, in the least seedy sense of the word (its for over 21s only), Baroosh always likes to keep things fresh and modern. It's actually part of the Baroosh chain, but you'd hardly know it, thanks to the way everything seems tailored to its Cambridge location and customers. Whether you come to sink into sofas with a coffee or be seen with the beautiful people by the bar, the welcome will always be warm and the ambience cool.