- except that from the outside you can't hear the happy hubbub or smell the heady mix of garlic and char-grilled meat.

Efes looks pretty carnivore - though 13 of the starters are vegetarian and there is a vegetarian main course. There are some chicken dishes and even a seafood kebab, but that is not how the menu is weighted; this place is really a hymn to the glories of lamb. They take it seriously, buying the lamb whole, hanging it, butchering it themselves, and then marinating it with herbs and spices. And very enjoyable it is too.

Once we had been shown to our table, and equipped with a generously sized glass of house red, we started to study the menu. Trying to choose our starter from amongst 17 different meze was always going to be difficult, so we opted for the chef's selection. In fact, of the 17 meze on the menu, 12 appeared on the generous platter we were served. It was a wonderful way of being introduced to a whole spread of different tastes and textures, and helped us know what we would choose on our next visit. Efes prides itself on all the food being home made, and certainly we could see why, as we tasted their hummus, taramasalata and spinach tarator. The cheese borek and the aubergine sauté were very good, but the diced, deep-fried lamb's liver was sensational - hot, crisp on the outside yet meltingly tender inside, and packed with flavour. We had to restrain ourselves from ordering a full starter of it then and there.

For our main course, from amongst the many sorts of lamb kebabs, we chose the char-grilled shashlik kebabs. The lamb is marinated for two days, and was tender, pink on the inside, and very tasty (we felt it had no need for the offered chilli sauce). The kebabs were served with excellent rice, grilled onion, peppers, a chilli and a dressed salad of grated carrot, lettuce and red cabbage. It makes rather a large meal. The musakka, with layers of minced lamb and aubergine, topped with a creamy sauce, was also very good indeed. The flavours were really integrated and had a depth to them that was very satisfying. It too came with rice and salad.

By the time we had finished our mains, we had, sadly, eaten so well, that we could not have managed a baklava and coffee. But we will manage it next time, because Efes has the lure of a cheerful, friendly place which serves straightforward, unfussy good food in good portions at a good price. Lots of the diners we saw there were obviously on return visits, and we could well see why.