Review

Witchford, near Ely, might seem an out of the way sort of place, but Needham's Restaurant is a very powerful argument for going there. It has the unassuming exterior of an old, brick-built farm house which is set back from the road. Inside, it has comfortable dimensions, a variety of dining areas, and an ambiance which is calm and collected. As you sit in the bar, equipped with a drink and considering the menu, you begin to recall that it is also a place which exhibits contemporary art, so there is plenty to see too.

Every dish we had was subtle and delicious and intriguing, and had us struggling to put our finger on just what it was that made it work so well

The food is imaginative modern English, with foreign influences (including Mediterranean and South East Asian). There are only seven starters and seven mains, but actually choosing was very difficult because the choice was so interesting.

Should it be the seared King Scallops with cauliflower and cumin fritters or the courgette-wrapped lamb and feta sausage or the cured, seared duck breast? But this bald précis of some of the starters does the menu a disservice. The menu goes into great detail about the constituents of each dish. At Needhams this seemed more a case of the chef putting his cards on the table and teasing you to identify the tastes and sensations involved.

Every dish we had was subtle and delicious and intriguing, and had us struggling to put our finger on just what it was that made it work so well. The ingredients melded together so harmoniously that it was difficult to define the taste. Some restaurant menus are about an onslaught of strong, competing tastes. Quite the reverse here - and memorably so.

So, the lamb and feta sausage, wrapped in courgette, was excellent, while the duck breast was very good (and we loved the candied chilli). Even though we are normally unmoved by squash, the butternut squash and nutmeg dauphinoise, which accompanied the roasted quails, was just terrific. The highpoint of the evening was the seatrout. To be specific, it had been marinated in lime, ginger and soy, and was served with prawn and noodle spring roll, cucumber spaghetti, and spring onions, with a sauce of coconut, chilli and coriander. The seatrout tasted of seatrout, but it was so beautifully enhanced by all the other flavours that it was sensational. One of the best things we have tasted for a long time.

It seems almost an anti-climax to say that the selection of English and French cheeses, served with celery and grapes was very satisfying, but we ended the evening with another tease from the chef - a trio of 'herb' crème brulees.. There was lemon & bay leaf, then raspberry & tarragon, and to complete the list, a chocolate, honey & thyme crème brulee. They made a wonderful end to an excellent meal.

If you like a restaurant which sends you home thinking about different combinations of flavours, and wanting to try cooking new dishes, then this is the place for you... On the other hand, if you just like really good food, this is the place for you.