all again."

Walk into the White Swan on the edge of Stow-cum Quy, turn right and you're in a country snug bar as traditional as the pub's square old fashioned frontage . It's a warm Fen inn, with atmosphere that hasn't changed down the decades.

A super-affable landlord breaks off a yarn with regulars round the bar - greets you with jolly enthusiasm - and sends you to the next room where the pub's restaurant is in full swing.

That's one of the nice things about the White Swan. It has kept its local pub character - but the restaurant next door is a surprising contrast. Here is the same warm welcome, and a menu as varied and dynamic as any London eaterie. The White Swan is an impressive double act.

A new Spring menu makes its appearance to mark the beginning of the end of winter and it's a cracker. We had the Chicken Liver Pate (£5.50) which was terrific. Keen not to spoil my appetite for the main course I'd ordered (roasted sea bass £14.50) I didn't eat all of the absolutely delicious pate and rather cheekily asked if I could take the rest home with me. Within minutes the waitress whisked the paté away and returned with it carefully packaged into a foil envelope. I am not sure I'd have been making requests like that in a London restaurant - it's part of the fun of a local unpretentious venue like the White Swan.

My companion had the Pan-seared king scallops (£6.50) - there were only two of them which I suppose is fair enough and it was a starter, but they were completely heavenly, with a piquant garnish. The main courses were equally delightful. Barbary Duck breast with fondant potatoes with chestnut and onion caramelized to a gorgeous glossy finish was truly fabulous. And the Roast wild sea bass was a large meaty fish which made me glad I hadn't wolfed the entire ramekin of chicken pate in the first place.

Gorgeous food, delightful service and a charming host in our excellent - and quick - waitress, you might think this would add up to a five star recommendation. Unfortunately the White Swan just has not gone far enough to transform itself. The overhead lighting is a bit on the brutal side, which shows up the rather bleak table settings. With a sophisticated chef and top class service, this ambience deserves much better.

The fashion for tables with no tablecloths is gathering pace, but it's not one I generally like unless the tables are strong rustic types. Just leaving off the cloths - no mats - doesn't work, you find your cutlery sliding about on the shiny surface, not a great experience. The tables at the White Swan are tiny, too small really, but the chairs were generous - comfortable and upholstered so you're not in for a long evening on a hard surface as in some places. And there was a carpet so the clatter that bedevils dinner in many restaurant pubs was avoided.

No, all the White Swan needs is an investment in some front-of-house glamour: it has the staff to match, the prices are fair but if it wants to attract the diners it deserves, get those tablecloths, lighting and bring a bit of luxury to meet its terrific food and lively friendly staff.

By the way, we tried to make their Chicken liver pate at home and we had a taste-off with the bit they'd been kind enough to package up for us. Result? White Swan 10, Home 8. It was unbeatable.