undercroft (almonry as in alms for the poor), with its heavy stone piers and vaulted ceiling. It is not surprise that The Almonry attracts tourists, but it is also draws local people, mainly older and appreciative of the calm and civilized ambience.

As a delightful and very traditional tea room from morning until late afternoon, it offers an inviting and extensive array of cakes alongside full English cream teas. At midday the Almonry blossoms into a charming venue for lunch. There is no printed menu for full meals - a blackboard lists the five or six options for the day, all offered with freshly cooked local vegetables. This is like the best of home-cooked farmhouse food - good quality, unpretentious food that satisfies. The steak pie was well-filled, had a good proportion of kidney, and a crisp pastry lid. The vegetables were well-prepared. The lasagne was a fairly modest portion but given that it is offered with potatoes and veg, anything larger would have been rather bulky.

Even though we visited when it was not a busy market day, the restaurant area was full yet there was no feeling of pressure to finish and leave. The service was gracious and welcoming. It encouraged us to linger and indulge in puddings, possibly not a good idea when you take sticky treacle tart, or the richness of sherry trifle imaginatively converted to a cheesecake!

Despite the wonderful and inspiring location, few young people seem to see the appeal of The Almonry. That said, when we visited there was a group of distinctly yummy mummies, young professionals with little ones in tow enjoying the freedom of the garden. As we paid at the till, we spotted the wonders on offer in the cake cabinet - certainly an excuse to come again, and a reminder of what those who chose anonymous, coffee house chains are missing.