refinement.

The menu features largely traditional English fare, with avant garde twists and pristine presentation. There's a strong emphasis on local produce and seasonal ingredients, and the menu can reflect this from week to week.

Starters include seasonal soups and creams (such as watercress and artichoke), soufflé or pâté, and usually include hot and cold meat and fish dishes. Starter prices are surprisingly good, for the intricacy of the dishes, ranging between £6 and £8.

The main courses read like a Who's Who of the English country kitchen, with copious game supplemented by rich plate-fellows such as stilton, bacon, plum and herb stuffings. Dainty touches like edible flower garnish underline the confident and creative approach to classic dishes. Mains typically range from £13 to £18.

For dessert fans, there are custardy and creamy accompaniments to a variety of steamed, baked and glazed temptations. Sharp lemon and dark chocolate vie for attention, and all icecream and yoghurt products are made in house. Prices for desserts range from £3 for a coffee with home-baked biscuits or mint crèmes to £7 for a cheese platter or heavier steamed pudding.

The wine list is extensive and varied, from a house glass for £5, or a bottle from £15 to £100 or so.