single fresh flower graced our simply set table. There's a pubby feel to the beamed and brick restaurant, with the tables fairly close together. On this particular night we felt the ornamental log fire beside us could have done with being real, though piping hot chocolate and mulled wine were available to dispel the chill factor.

Background music included three twenty-somethings discussing text messages, and a lad eager to extract the last of his drink through a straw, admonished for doing so by the ten or so family members surrounding him.

Inward warmth was provided by a starter of smoked - and smoking - haddock, plus a leek and Cheddar gratin, which we shared as it was almost a main course. We enjoyed dipping the ciabatta into the richly creamy sauce from a choice of ten varied starters. As we perused the sumptuous Valentine's night menu, we orderd glasses of house red (available in three sizes) from the wine and cocktails list, which includes everything from Anchor Fizz to Sex on the Beach.

Our position under the specials blackboard made us feel somewhat like a shop window display as would-be diners stared over us to read, though we could hardly blame them with dishes such as Thai mussels in coconut, lemongrass and ginger, and warm pear frangipane tart on offer. We opted for char-grilled garlic and herb chicken breast (good, though the tomatoes in the 'Italian salad' could have used some sun, and the new potatoes some butter) and Grasmere farm sausages with wholegrain mustard mash and onion gravy (excellent) which we chose from a wide range of traditional English and Italian courses.

Lavish pizzas and piled bowls of scampi and chips passed en route to other diners, and for us portions seemed over-large. The stone-baked pizzas can also be ordered as a takeaway.

Simon and Gaye Stephens-Young took over the Anchor two years ago and have smartened it up considerably with black leather-look chairs, bright circular buffets and shiny wooden tables. The loos are clean, with good quality soap and hand cream. The Anchor's motto of 'simple pleasures in a stylish local' is about right. All pasta and pizzas are made fresh and all coffee with freshly ground Italian beans. We attempted to share a slice of Kahlua cheesecake so densely rich that a third of it had to be lovingly wrapped in a burgundy paper napkin and carried home.

The Anchor offers a range of activities, with pudding clubs, fish suppers, folk evenings, live music and quiz nights, senior citizens lunches, and darts and petanque teams being formed. There are also special one-offs such as St. Patrick's day and Mothering Sunday celebrations. Outside, there is an attractive wooden tree house and slides for children.

Service was friendly and attentive - our table was visited by three staff, though sadly none was able to verify the legend of the policeman who met his end in or near the pub in days of yore, and it was a shame that the worsening snow caused us to leave rather than linger. Maybe we'll return to sample the jumbo fish finger ciabatta roll served at lunchtime - though it'll probably have to be one between two.