the best of modern architecture of its time.

As you enter the quiet, carpeted Riverside restaurant you are immediately struck by the view out - a wall of windows offers a panoramic view sweeping round from Silver Street bridge to the scenic Darwin College, all reflected in the river and mill pond. By day there is the bustle of punters, at night it would take on a romantic air with lights flickering through the willows.

One end of the restaurant once served as a coffee room where international names from academia browsed the papers after lunch in the 'Grad Pad'. Then, it was the exclusive, membership-only enclave of graduate-level and above. Nowadays, anyone can enjoy the view and the food, though you still might pass world experts on the stairs!

The Riverside epitomizes modern elegance, relaxed and comfortable with white table linen and upholstered chairs. The menu has an option of express two-courses at an incredibly reasonable price for the quality, or three courses with several choices. Our starters were light and appetizing. Both the trout and seared scallops were moist and exquisitely presented with ribbons of carrot and snippets of salad. The mains were also a delight to see and any apprehension of the lamb being too pink was immediately dispelled - juicy, tender meat complimented by the jus served in a little jug. The dish of vegetables included more pricey varieties such as mange tout and baby corn-cobs.

It was hard to decide from the four pudding choices - all equally inviting but being a summer day the strawberry parfait, rich in cream and served in a brandy basket won.

This was one of the most relaxed and elegant meals we?ve enjoyed in Cambridge and it confirmed the reason for Riverside's popularity. If you had three individual courses from most pubs, it would probably cost hardly any less yet you have the experience of charming surroundings, attentive service and fine food. As we left through the heavy swing doors, we knew we would return.