décor is totally unchanged as the fire only scorched the kitchen area. Once inside the immediate impression is of homely but ordered comfort: neutral colours, relaxed carefully planned lighting, wood, slate and brick. The outdoor area is currently being renovated for the summer with increased capacity on the pleasant central cobblestone patio. The website bravely boasts that a large sum has been spent in a new state-of-the-art kitchen and this was our chance to sample their new fare.

Food wise the former pub still serves British food with a solid emphasis on locally sourced produce. The wine shop aspect of the venue continues its relationship with the d'Arenberg winery in Australia. As before the menu is handily arranged with specific wine recommendations for each dish.

As part of a large party we were seated in a ramshackle style on non-matching tables in the private 20-seater Tasting Room. Around us gleamed hundreds of (empty) wine bottles on two sides of the room from owners d'Arenberg winery in the world famous McLaren Vale region of South Australia displaying amusing names, obviously the product of a self-confident Aussie humour, such as Stump Jump, The Hillbillies or Sweet, Bubbly or Fortified.

For starters many of the group opted for the seared scallops with chorizo, pea puree and a sherry vinegar reduction on rocket. Succulent chunks of scallop and thickly-sliced, chewy chorizo were interestingly arranged on a broad white dish which was a little too cold to bring out the flavours. Despite this wine and good conversation soon warmed us all up we tucked into our eagerly awaited meals.

All doubts were swiftly routed with the triumphant arrival of the mains. The cavalry duly arrived and presented a peerless main course cooked to precision and served in healthy portions.

The prime fillet of sea bass was pan fried to perfection, warm and juicy on the inside and lightly crisped on the outer. This supreme fish portion was served on a creamy smoked salmon and fennel risotto and shellfish brandy puréed 'bisque'. The hearty and mouth-watering seafood risotto did not obscure the delicate taste and subtle aromas of the sea bass and contributed to a wonderful dish.

Anything after must be an anticlimax I thought but the wonderfully named double chocolate fudge brownie with mint chocolate ice cream and dark choc sauce finished off the evening in style.

Like a phoenix from the flames, d'Arry's has immediately repositioned itself again at the forefront of contemporary dining in Cambridge.