several semi-private booths. Add to this a brick inglenook fireplace, hunting prints and paraphernalia, an old wooden propeller and aeroplane engravings and a few cases of rather alarming stuffed insects and you have a place which invites intrigue and lets you sup the spirit of an ancient inn. On the Saturday evening of our visit drinkers cluster round the bar and provide a hale backdrop of Cambridgeshire carousing.

Continuing to the barn dining room with its exposed rafters we find a mixture of locals, girls' night-outers and a party of American tourists. The large garden at the rear has recently been made over and is newly resplendent with bench tables and parasols and on this summer's evening it's overflowing.

Blending modern European cooking with pub classics the menu limits itself to a sensible size. Starters are imaginative including Brixham crab and dill risotto, hot smoked trout salad with shallots and pistachios and, what a treat, lambs' sweetbreads. Mains are decent sized but come as a complete dish rather than with separate vegetables. Our duck breast arrives with broccoli and pommes anna and the marinated leg of lamb with green beans and mashed potato. Off the main menu the lighter 'Classic Pub Dishes' includes dishes such as steak and kidney pie, moules et frites and corned beef hash burger. It's also nice to find three vegetarian dishes on the menu.

Service is enthusiastic if a little erratic. We are encouraged to make a quick decision if we want the chocolate mousse as there is only one left. We do and it's mouth-wateringly delicious, rich and velvety. Our charming little waitress proudly proclaims that the café latte is the best one she has ever made - it's fine.

This is a true locals' pub, yet equally it's a welcoming retreat for tourists too with eight bed & breakfast rooms on site too. The Red Lion has always been a popular destination for lovers of good food and drink with its regular pudding nights and other special food events, and the advent of a new chef, Peter Friskey, previously of the Crown and Punchbowl at Horningsea, and a new manager can only help. Good food in pleasing surroundings attracts customers, contributing to The Red Lion's roaring success.