Review

In amongst the shouts and calls of the market traders and the boisterous night time party goers, Stazione has recently reopened to increase competition around Market Square.

Walking down the steps to this basement restaurant, we were greeted by warm reds, fresh flowers and a sleek vocal jazz duet. Vying for the appetites of theatre-goers, Stazione is an innovative newcomer to the local dining scene.

the evening sees Stazione transformed with stunning white linen tablecloths, candles and mood-enhancing lighting

We were warmly welcomed by an international cast of waiters, all finely versed in the idiosyncrasies of Italian dining. Straight away we were presented with an innovative twist to the norm; the main courses were available in half portions, vastly increasing the starter menu. Many of the wines were also conveniently available in half bottles, we chose a fruity Fabiano Valpolicello.

Renovated in early 2007, Stazione also doubles as a coffee shop in the daytime, serving British and continental breakfast options and an extensive lunchtime menu, with pasta, pizza, panini and salads galore, in addition to traditional British staples.

However, the evening sees Stazione transformed with stunning white linen tablecloths, candles and mood-enhancing lighting. The layout is somewhat labrynthine, but there are plenty of cosy corners, alcoves and partitioned-off areas for that extra privacy.

As the female vocalist serenaded the diners with relaxing Ella Fitzgerald songs, the starters arrived. The ingenious half portion concept allowed us to sample grilled Dutch calf liver with bacon, and grilled goats cheese with walnut mixed salad.

The music effortlessly moved from serene saxophone jazz to soothing soul ballads as the mix of locals and tourists dined, stopping only to warmly applaud as each song finished.

The mains were substantial and, like the starters, expertly presented. We chose from the specials' board which added to the almost thirty traditional and innovative Italian dishes on the main menu, with a pleasing focus on pesce and carne. The beef and mushroom risotto with large tender pieces of meat was slow-cooked to infuse the rice with the dish's distinctive flavours. The seafood pasta was bursting with the tantalising aromas and tastes of prawns, mussels and squid in a white wine sauce.

For dessert we shared a home made champagne sorbet as a light and refreshing finish to the evening.

Unfortunately, the service was sometimes slow, the phone is regularly unanswered when trying to book and some of the staff were somewhat aloof. However, catering mainly for the pre-theatre crowd, the combination of live music and an interesting menu, with half portions, makes the recently renovated Stazione a potential star performer on city centre dining scene.