Review

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Found merely yards away from one of Cambridge's fens by the Mill Pond, it's perhaps fitting that this suburban Newnham eatery serves Keralan Indian food. On India's south western tip the region boasts over 400 miles of coastline and is criss-crossed by a multitude of rivers making it one of the most verdant parts of the subcontinent. Staying faithful to his roots the manager of the Rice Boat, Jacob Abraham, has stuck to a traditional but unique Keralan menu with a large emphasis on fish, fruit and a variety of spices not present elsewhere.

Here the interior design clichés of the typical British Indian or Bangladeshi restaurant have been discarded as the spacious establishment has a light and airy feel with big wide windows. Abstract art hangs from the

Here the interior design clichés of the typical British Indian or Bangladeshi restaurant have been discarded as the spacious establishment has a light and airy feel with big wide windows

wall and Western pop music accompanies the chatter of diners. Decor is contemporary yet comfortable with wooden floors and neutral heather-coloured pastel walls. The understated square wooden tables decorated only with candles in little glass jars give a minimalist, clean and uncluttered look.

Service was excellent as soon as we opened the door, albeit on a quiet lunchtime, and the friendly staff were soon on first name terms with the younger members of our party. Although the Rice Boat has no children's menu there were plenty of toys to entertain everybody as we waited to be served. The drinks list is nothing unusual but has many types of beers with a wide range of wines and champagnes to fit any budget. We ordered a yoghurt-based mango lassi to pre-empt the spice-fest we were awaiting.

Choosing a selection of starters we soon got stuck in. Tuna and lamb deep fried cutlets were both similar to patties but with a distinct spicy ginger taste. The vada and masala dosa bread platter proved delightful including two lentil doughnuts and a rice pancake filled with potato and onion served with chutneys and sambar, a hearty, lentil-based curry sauce.

For our mains we went for the fish Keralan cuisine is renowned for. The traditional red fish curry was wonderful: lightly smoked king fish in a spicy rich curry sauce. The alleppy fish curry featured the same fish but in a brightly coloured saffron sauce with mango. We experimented too with the rice and chose a tangy lemon basmati rice and the other with subtle flavours of coconut and garnished with mustard seeds. That ten desserts were on offer was a pleasant surprise too. Alas we only had space for ice-cream but gave jealous glances at out neighbours who were devouring a huge banana fritter with vanilla ice-cream and smothered in dessert wine.

Rice Boat is not cheap for an Indian restaurant - the fish and many regional vegetables are delivered weekly from London - but there are many set menus, student discounts and an early eating discount to reduce the bill. As the website proudly boats: "Indian food, but not as you know it". Tasting is definitely believing here.